RV Converter

!±8± RV Converter

Just when I thought we thoroughly covered RV electrical systems, I get a really good question about something that I discuss in my previous articles. I received one of these good questions the other day and I thought it would be many other RVers who want to hear the answer.

Question: In one of your previous articles you list the RV converter as drawing 5 amps. Why, I believe that the drive is running at any time be connected in a system with 120 volts AC (30 amp), it meansmeans that in reality you only have 25 amps to work with (30 minus 5 = 25, and moves without considering clock, etc.)? I am developing an electric amplifier to hang in your closet and I need a graph to solve this problem, as this would make a significant difference.

First, let's talk briefly about what your RV converter. When you plug your RV into a power source, or if the board generator, the converter is to reduce 120 volts AC to 12 volts direct current job continueson all 12-volt appliances and accessories in the RV. If it were not connected to an electric RV battery (s) would have the power to all 12-volt appliances and accessories to provide VR. The converter basically prevents the battery RV (s) from draining when you are plugged in.

There are two types of amplifiers for RV. The AC-amplifiers we use and we use DC amplifiers. Let me explain. When you plug your RV into a source of electricity and 120Volt appliances like the roof air conditioning, microwave and TV you are drawing amps from the network available in the campground, usually 30 or 50 amps depending on the electrical system from the camper and the network are connected if a power source is connected and 'DC appliances and accessories such as fans, lights, pumps or the TV antenna booster you are drawing amps from the converter. I am now more confused than at the beginning? Let's try it with this textlittle 'different.

Suppose that fits in a 30-amp RV power and only use 120-volt appliances. Using power amplifiers available from 30 A to 120-volt appliances all run, but the drive design is almost 0 amps, because you disagree with a DC accessory. There is a small amount of elements such as LP gas leak detector, clocks or perhaps a corridor of light, but not enough to really affect the amperage it is connected.

Your RVConverter is designed for a certain amperage ie 30 amps, 45 A, 55 amps. In other words, a 45-amp converter runs in 45 A value of 12-volt appliances in the RV. When the drive is the maximum capacity of RV, which produces 45 A in this case for 12-volt appliances and accessories business, is about 5 amps from 30 A are available from camping supply design.

Let's say that you have connected and you are with a few 12-volt ceiling lighting(2 amps) and a ceiling fan (4 amps). In these cases, the software design is very little of the power supply 30 amp campsites. In another scenario, say with a lot of 12-volt overhead lights (8 amps) are the fan of the oven (11 amps), water pump (4 A), 12-volt TV (5 A) range hood (2.5 amps), and the battery is charged by the charger converter (3 amps). Well, if the converter is close to its full capacity to run itself draws on the full 5 ampcampsites 30 amp, leaving you with 25 amps for other 120-volt appliances and accessories. As you can see, it is unlikely that this would have happened at a time. The bottom line is the power converter requirements vary depending on the set at 12 volts question about him.

Another question was asked was, I know that my conversion is also a charger so, why is not my batteries back to take a full load? RV Converters RV batteries provide a charge to your homebut only a small part of the current transformer is for this use. A. Usually 3 to 5, which is not nearly enough batteries for a free download.

The charger converter is designed so that the batteries with this seasoned house dripping. Another problem with older RV converters is that they charge a fixed voltage in the range of 13.5 volts. When the batteries are fully charged, this may be overkill for a trickle-charge and over time that will cause the waterLevel in the cells of the battery. Therefore it is important to regularly check the water level in your batteries, especially if you leave the RV plugged in for a long time. You can have a three-stage charger can provide much free time to absorb a charge and then a trickle charge. RV Converters latest on the market are able to recharge the batteries this way.

Well, to help you with your amp is also a diagram of some typical amperage draws for appliancesand equipment commonly used in mobile homes. Remember, I'm not an expert in energy production by any stretch of imagination. This is just a simple guide for you how many amps that have to be supported at any time. If you need to know the exact amperage ratings you can check the label on any, electrical motors and electronic devices to use. If you can not find a license plate with this information check the appliance or electronic device in the manual. This information can providePower amplifiers, however. Here are a few simple formulas for the conversion of some common electrical terms.

% Power = Volts Amps
Power = Volts X Amps

Another thing to keep in mind is many RV appliances require more amps to the device, because it does not start running with the device. An air conditioner on the roof can draw 16 amps to start, but only 13 A when it is running.

120 Volt AC Amp Ratings:

Estimate equipment and electronicsAmps

Air conditioning (X number of A / C) 12-16 Amps

Blender 6.5 amps

Coffee 8.5 amps

CD 1 Amp

Computer (laptop) 2-3 amps

Converter 5.1 amps

Crock Pot 1-2 amps

Curling iron

RV Converter

Low Price Rain Barrel Water Pump

RV Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt DC Problem

!±8± RV Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt DC Problem

If you like campers already know, this is a big part of the fun away from it all with RVing. You can simply pack up the camper and head out for some well deserved rest and relaxation, without dealing with the hassles of day trading days of life. This quiet, relaxing, RV storage should not make trips ruined by something as simple as a 12-volt problem your vacation at risk.

If you're RVing for any amount of time you have already known that a goodPart of the equipment and accessories in your RV away for 12-volts DC. 12-volt DC or direct current electricity is supplied by RV batteries. Current flows in one direction, from negative to positive. 12-VDC power is in the RV batteries and power supplies for components, equipment and devices that operate from 12-volts stored.

This 12-volt gas appliances include ceiling light detectors, water pump, vent fans, fan oven, extractor hood, LPStereo, TV and refrigerator, 12 volt, if it operated in the LPG mode. When you go camping are based on this 12-volt items to work properly, especially when you are camping dry without connections. So, what if one of these 12-volt products to stop the problem?

For the sake of example let's say that we are dry camping, and our 12-volt water pump stops working.

I am convinced that almost everyone is capable of solving problems in a 12-VDC, and repair in many casesthe problem without ruining your camping. To begin, you need a few simple tools to help in troubleshooting RV 12-volt electrical system.

1). An inexpensive 12-volt test light.

2). A multimeter can be used for the test DC.

Both should be available in the local auto parts. It should also be some electrical tape, various size wire nuts, light bulbs, 12 volt and 12 volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage of the fuses in the powerDistribution box and to keep a selection. If you use a knowledge of the fuse in line on a 12-volt appliances to keep them on hand.

Now try to determine the last time the water pump actually worked. You have the RV for a certain period with the pump on? There is water in the tank into the water? They're working around something or other that could have affected the operation of the water pump? Think about all the possible scenarios. Something might jar your memoryleading to a rapid solution to the problem.

Otherwise, it is the first step to ensuring that the battery is fully charged batteries coach or enough to provide these products to 12 volts. There are a few ways to run a quick test on batteries coach. You can use the control panel to check the status of the car to check the batteries. To ensure an accurate reading that the RV is not plugged into electricity and turn instead of a couple of ceiling lights, a small load on the battery. Check the 'Reading displayed on the monitor. (If you check the reading on the display when the RV is plugged in, you're reading is fully charged) A more accurate method is to test the battery with a multimeter. Set the meter to read 12-VDC and the place of the negative test probe to the negative and the positive probe to the positive terminal of the battery. A fully charged battery in the range 12.6 to 12.7 volts reading. If it is less than 12 volts under a readingThe 50% state of charge and must be recharged.

If the battery is fully charged, the next step is to ensure that each of the battery switch is turned coach. If the power switch to ensure that other 12-volt appliances are working properly in the RV. If there are 12 volts of power to the inside of the camper you need to check the fuse for the pump station water supply. Determine which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are usuallyshown) and a suitable ground for 12-volt test light. Try both sides of the fuse for 12-volts. If the test light is lit on one side of the fuse, replace it with the correct size fuse and retry the water pump. If there is power on both sides of the control fuse 12 volts to change the water pump. If there is tension, and the switch is operated under effective control of wiring for a water pump in-line fuse.

Find a good ground for the 12-volt test light and probe the wireon both sides of the fuse. If there is only power on the one hand, the fuse, replace fuse with correct size pump and try again. If there is power on both sides of the fuse to check the cable connections for the water pump wire nuts. And 'possible connections to come loose due to heavy vibrations. Correct any loose connections and retry the pump. If the pump still does not hear the engine to see if it's too hot to touch. When the engine is hot, a thermal switch has beenactivated. Let the time of the pump to cool off and see if you re-set.

If you complete all these tests and there are 12 volts DC to the engine water pump, and still has not come, it is likely that the water pump is bad and must be replaced.

Solving a 12-volt electrical problem in your RV is not that difficult. Follow the logical path of the device you are troubleshooting and see if you can determine where the problem lies. It may be possible for youto save the well-deserved vacation, some money and a trip to the RV dealer.

Note: If you do not feel comfortable performing your own maintenance or troubleshooting of the 12-volt electrical system, you take your RV to a reputable repair shop to have it inspected and repaired

Camping happy!

Copyright 2006 by owner Mark J. Polk of RV Education 101

RV Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt DC Problem

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