Just when I thought we thoroughly covered RV electrical systems, I get a really good question about something that I discuss in my previous articles. I received one of these good questions the other day and I thought it would be many other RVers who want to hear the answer.
Question: In one of your previous articles you list the RV converter as drawing 5 amps. Why, I believe that the drive is running at any time be connected in a system with 120 volts AC (30 amp), it meansmeans that in reality you only have 25 amps to work with (30 minus 5 = 25, and moves without considering clock, etc.)? I am developing an electric amplifier to hang in your closet and I need a graph to solve this problem, as this would make a significant difference.
First, let's talk briefly about what your RV converter. When you plug your RV into a power source, or if the board generator, the converter is to reduce 120 volts AC to 12 volts direct current job continueson all 12-volt appliances and accessories in the RV. If it were not connected to an electric RV battery (s) would have the power to all 12-volt appliances and accessories to provide VR. The converter basically prevents the battery RV (s) from draining when you are plugged in.
There are two types of amplifiers for RV. The AC-amplifiers we use and we use DC amplifiers. Let me explain. When you plug your RV into a source of electricity and 120Volt appliances like the roof air conditioning, microwave and TV you are drawing amps from the network available in the campground, usually 30 or 50 amps depending on the electrical system from the camper and the network are connected if a power source is connected and 'DC appliances and accessories such as fans, lights, pumps or the TV antenna booster you are drawing amps from the converter. I am now more confused than at the beginning? Let's try it with this textlittle 'different.
Suppose that fits in a 30-amp RV power and only use 120-volt appliances. Using power amplifiers available from 30 A to 120-volt appliances all run, but the drive design is almost 0 amps, because you disagree with a DC accessory. There is a small amount of elements such as LP gas leak detector, clocks or perhaps a corridor of light, but not enough to really affect the amperage it is connected.
Your RVConverter is designed for a certain amperage ie 30 amps, 45 A, 55 amps. In other words, a 45-amp converter runs in 45 A value of 12-volt appliances in the RV. When the drive is the maximum capacity of RV, which produces 45 A in this case for 12-volt appliances and accessories business, is about 5 amps from 30 A are available from camping supply design.
Let's say that you have connected and you are with a few 12-volt ceiling lighting(2 amps) and a ceiling fan (4 amps). In these cases, the software design is very little of the power supply 30 amp campsites. In another scenario, say with a lot of 12-volt overhead lights (8 amps) are the fan of the oven (11 amps), water pump (4 A), 12-volt TV (5 A) range hood (2.5 amps), and the battery is charged by the charger converter (3 amps). Well, if the converter is close to its full capacity to run itself draws on the full 5 ampcampsites 30 amp, leaving you with 25 amps for other 120-volt appliances and accessories. As you can see, it is unlikely that this would have happened at a time. The bottom line is the power converter requirements vary depending on the set at 12 volts question about him.
Another question was asked was, I know that my conversion is also a charger so, why is not my batteries back to take a full load? RV Converters RV batteries provide a charge to your homebut only a small part of the current transformer is for this use. A. Usually 3 to 5, which is not nearly enough batteries for a free download.
The charger converter is designed so that the batteries with this seasoned house dripping. Another problem with older RV converters is that they charge a fixed voltage in the range of 13.5 volts. When the batteries are fully charged, this may be overkill for a trickle-charge and over time that will cause the waterLevel in the cells of the battery. Therefore it is important to regularly check the water level in your batteries, especially if you leave the RV plugged in for a long time. You can have a three-stage charger can provide much free time to absorb a charge and then a trickle charge. RV Converters latest on the market are able to recharge the batteries this way.
Well, to help you with your amp is also a diagram of some typical amperage draws for appliancesand equipment commonly used in mobile homes. Remember, I'm not an expert in energy production by any stretch of imagination. This is just a simple guide for you how many amps that have to be supported at any time. If you need to know the exact amperage ratings you can check the label on any, electrical motors and electronic devices to use. If you can not find a license plate with this information check the appliance or electronic device in the manual. This information can providePower amplifiers, however. Here are a few simple formulas for the conversion of some common electrical terms.
% Power = Volts Amps
Power = Volts X Amps
Another thing to keep in mind is many RV appliances require more amps to the device, because it does not start running with the device. An air conditioner on the roof can draw 16 amps to start, but only 13 A when it is running.
120 Volt AC Amp Ratings:
Estimate equipment and electronicsAmps
Air conditioning (X number of A / C) 12-16 Amps
Blender 6.5 amps
Coffee 8.5 amps
CD 1 Amp
Computer (laptop) 2-3 amps
Converter 5.1 amps
Crock Pot 1-2 amps
Curling iron
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